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A half-pipe is a structure used in gravity extreme sports such as snowboarding, skateboarding, skiing, freestyle BMX, skating and scooter riding.

May 6, 2014 - Free skateboard ramp plans to build. See more ideas about skateboard ramps, skateboard, ramp. A 'Mini Ramp' is a skateboard ramp (think: halfpipe) that is smaller than six feet tall and doesn't contain any 'vert', meaning that it doesn't go vertical in the sloped transition. The DIY mini ramp we're building here is 3 feet tall, 12 feet wide, and 24 feet long.

• Free ramp plans for a 4 foot mini halfpipe, 8 foot vert halfpipe, 4 foot quarterpipe, grind box and funbox, instructions include step by step pictures and videos. Skateboard trick Videos.
• A micro ramp consists of two smaller-than-average-sized quarter pipes, 2 feet high by 4 feet wide, facing each other. This is the kind I built for myself, and I'm going to show you how to build your own for your garage or basement.

Overview[edit]

The structure resembles a cross-section of a swimming pool, essentially two concave ramps (or quarter-pipes), topped by copings and decks, facing each other across a flat transition, also known as a tranny.^[1] Originally half-pipes were half sections of a large diameter pipe. Since the 1980s, half-pipes contain an extended flat bottom between the quarter-pipes; the original style half-pipes are no longer built. Flat ground provides time to regain balance after landing and more time to prepare for the next trick.

Half-pipe applications include leisure recreation, skills development, competitive training, amateur and professional competition, demonstrations, and as an adjunct to other types of skills training.A skilled athlete can perform in a half-pipe for an extended period of time by pumping to attain extreme speeds with relatively little effort. Large (high amplitude) half-pipes make possible many of the aerial tricks in BMX, skating and skateboarding.

For winter sports such as freestyle skiing and snowboarding, a half-pipe can be dug out of the ground or snow perhaps combined with snow buildup. The plane of the transition is oriented downhill at a slight grade to allow riders to use gravity to develop speed and facilitate drainage of melt. In the absence of snow, dug out half-pipes can be used by dirtboarders, motorcyclists, and mountain bikers.

Performance in a half-pipe has been rapidly increasing over recent years. The current limit performed by a top-level athlete for a rotational trick in a half-pipe is 1440 degrees (four full 360 degree rotations). In top level competitions, rotation is generally limited to emphasize style and flow.

Origin[edit]

In the early 1970s, swimming pools were used by skateboarders in a manner similar to surfing ocean waves. In 1975, some teenagers from Encinitas, California, and other northern San Diego County communities began using 7.3-metre-diameter (24 ft) water pipes in the central Arizona desert associated with the Central Arizona Project, a federal public works project to divert water from the Colorado River to the city of Phoenix. Tom Stewart, one of these young California skateboarders,^[2] looked for a more convenient location to have a similar skateboarding experience. Stewart consulted with his brother Mike, an architect, on how to build a ramp that resembled the Arizona pipes. With his brother's plans in hand, Tom built a wood frame half-pipe in the front yard of his house in Encinitas.

In a few days, the press had gotten word about Tom's creation and contacted him directly. Tom then went on to create Rampage, Inc. and began selling blueprints for his half-pipe design.^[3] About five months later, Skateboarder magazine featured both Tom Stewart and Rampage. Little did Tom know that his design would go on to inspire countless others to follow in his foot steps.

Design[edit]

The character of a half-pipe depends on the relationship between four attributes: most importantly, the transition radius and the height, and less so, the degree of flat bottom and width. Extra width allows for longer slides and grinds. The flat bottom, while valued for recovery time, serves no purpose if it is longer than it needs to be.^[4]Thus, it is the ratio between height and transition radius that determines the personality of a given ramp, because the ratio determines the angle of the lip.^[5]

On half-pipes which are less than vertical, the height, typically between 50% and 75% of the radius, profoundly affects the ride up to and from the lip, and the speed at which tricks must be executed. Ramps near or below 0.91 m (3 ft) of height sometimes fall below 50% of the height of their radius. Technical skaters use them for advanced flip tricks and spin maneuvers. Smaller transitions that maintain the steepness of their larger counterparts are commonly found in pools made for skating and in custom mini ramps. The difficulty of technical tricks is increased with the steepness, but the feeling of dropping in from the coping is preserved.

Common mistake in the construction of ramps is constant radius in transitions:Most of the ramps are built with a quarter circle of constant radius for easy construction, but the best ramps are not constant radius but a parabola with little final vert (vertical).

The parabola allows for easy big air with return still on the curve and not on the flat.

Mathematics[edit]

A cycloid profile will theoretically give the fastest half-pipe if friction is neglected. It is then called a brachistochrone curve. Such a curve in its pure form has infinitely short verts and is π times as wide as it is high.

Skateboarding, freestyle BMX, Scootering, and aggressive inline skating[edit]

Frame and support for skateboard, BMX, and vert skating half-pipes frequently consist of a 2x6x8' lumber (actual 38 x 140 x 184 mm) framework sheathed in plywood finished with sheets of masonite or Skatelite. Also, a metal frame finished in wood or metal is sometimes used.^{[citation needed]}

Most commercial and contest ramps are surfaced by attaching sheets of some form of masonite to a frame. Many private ramps are surfaced in the same manner but may use plywood instead of masonite as surface material. Some ramps are constructed by spot-welding sheet metal to the frame, resulting in a fastener-free surface. Recent developments in technology have produced various versions of improved masonite substances such as Skatelite, RampArmor, and HARD-Nox.^[6] These ramp surfaces are far more expensive than traditional materials.

Channels, extensions, and roll-ins are the basic ways to customize a ramp. Sometimes a section of the platform is cut away to form a roll-in and a channel to allow skaters to commence a ride without dropping in and perform tricks over the gap. Extensions are permanent or temporary additions to the height of one section of the ramp that can make riding more challenging.

Creating a spine ramp is another variation of the half-pipe. A spine ramp is basically two quarter pipes adjoined at the vertical edge.

Snow Half-pipes[edit]

Free Mini Ramp Plans

Half-pipes in snow were originally done in large part by hand or with heavy machinery. Pipes were cut into snow using an apparatus similar to a grain elevator. The inventor was Colorado farmer Doug Waugh who created the Pipe Dragon used in both the 1998 and 2002 Winter Olympics.^[7] One current method of half-pipe cutting is by use of a Zaugg Pipe Monster, which uses five snow-cutting edges to create an elliptical shape that is purportedly safer and allows the rider to gain more speed.^{[citation needed]}

In winter sports, a 6.7 m (22 ft) halfpipe is called a superpipe. The tallest snow superpipe in the world is currently located near Laax, Switzerland.^{[citation needed]} With a height of 6.90 m (22.6 ft) this Halfpipe has held the world record since the 2014/2015 Season and regularly hosts the LAAX Open.

The current world record for highest jump in a half-pipe is held by freestyle skier, Peter Olenick.^{[citation needed]} At Winter X Games XIV in Aspen, Colorado, Olenick achieved a height of 7.59 m (24 ft 11 in)

See also[edit]

References[edit]

1. ^Human Kinetics (Organization); Hanlon, T.W. (2009). Sports Rules Book-3rd Edition, The. Human Kinetics. p. 206. ISBN9781450408103. Archived from the original on January 6, 2018. Retrieved December 22, 2014.
2. ^Warren Bolster. 'Warren Bolster 'Master of Skateboard Photography' Image: Tom Stewart'. Concrete Wave Editions (February 2005). ISBN0973528613. Archived from the original on 2013-06-23.
3. ^Warren Bolster. 'Warren Bolster 'Master of Skateboard Photography' Image: The Rampage'. Concrete Wave Editions (February 2005). ISBN0973528613. Archived from the original on 2013-06-24.
4. ^'Vert ramp design'. vert.co.za. Archived from the original on April 7, 2014. Retrieved December 22, 2014.
5. ^Lutzy. 'RampCalc'. Engineeringcalculator.net. Archived from the original on August 23, 2014. Retrieved April 3, 2014.
6. ^SkateliteArchived July 16, 2006, at the Wayback Machine
7. ^'The Dragon Lives On: Pipe Dragon inventor Doug Waugh passes away'. Transworld Snowboarding. February 29, 2000. Archived from the original on August 3, 2009. Retrieved June 13, 2011.

How to Make a 3ft. Mini Ramp

This mini ramp is 3ft. tall (from the ground to the top of the deck), 8ft. wide and 24'-0 from end to end (including each deck).

Aswith all structures here on DIYskate, you can build this mini ramp anysize you want. However, for the material list to be accurate, you willneed to follow the plans as listed below.

Keep in mind thatthis ramps measurements was not chosen at random. I spent weeksengineering a ramp that would be cost and material efficient, fun toride and most important, sturdy and safe.

Where to get your Supplies

The wood and hardware can befound at most home improvement stores. Sometimes you can find the steelthere as well, I know my local Home Depot carries the coping andthreshold material.

If not, check the phone book. Look up Steel, Steel Yards, Steel Fabricators, Scrap Steel & anything else with Steel in the title.

Ifthis ramp is going to stay outside, it needs to be protected from theelements. A good place to start is with pressure treated lumber, paintand a tarp. You may want to invest in a composite material for thesurface too. Such as Skate Lite or Ramp Armor.

Be extra careful when working with treated lumber though, the chemicals used to treat the wood contain a poisonous pesticide.

Choosing a Location for your Mini Ramp

Ideally, alevel driveway or concrete pad would be the best spot for your miniramp. But ramps tend to get pretty big and backyards and fields end upbeing the only place large enough for them.

If you're placingyour mini ramp on terra firma (earth) you'll need to make footings, orpads that the half pipe will sit on. You can do this similar to the wayyou build a deck for a house, with concrete blocks.

I've written a separate page on ramp foundations, because it's more than can be covered in a paragraph.

♠ Ramp Foundations

Build it

Below is a cut list referencing what you will need and it's size.

Material Cut List
Lumber Qty. Type Size 34 • 2×4 7'-10 1/2 4 • 2×4 2'-9 15 • 2×4 7'-9 2 • 2×4 8'-0	Plywood Qty. Type Size 4 • 3/4' Ply Sides (See Image) 2 • 3/4' Ply 2'-9 × 8'-0 9 • 3/8' Ply 4'-0 × 8'-0 2 • 3/8' Ply 2'-0 × 8'-0 5 • 1/4' Masonite 4'-0 × 8'-0	Steel Qty. Type Size 2 • Pipe 8'-0 (See Image)

Transition layout Diagram

Gather two sheets of 3/4' plywood for the side templates. One sheet of 3/4' ply will provide two sides.

Use CDX or better grade plywood. Particle board is not acceptable for any skate structure, period.

Drawing the transition

Take an 8' long 2×4 and on oneend, drill a hole the diameter of a pencil (about 3/8'). Then measurefrom the hole you just drilled, the length of the transition radius. Inthis case, 6'-0. Place a screw there but don't go all the way throughthe 2×4 yet.

Takeyour 3/4' plywood and lay it on a fairly level surface. Grab anothersheet of plywood and place it next to the 3/4' plywood as shown below.

Withthe 2×4 you made earlier, screw the screw into the top piece of plywoodwhere shown above. Now you want to draw a radius using the 2×4 to guideyour pencil until you have the transition radius clearly visible on the3/4' sheet of plywood.

Oncedrawn, measure up 2'-11 1/4 from the bottom left side. Using a straightedge, mark this and the notch for the coping to complete thetransition. The notch for the coping is 1 1/4' by 1 3/4'.

Cut the transition

With a jig saw, very carefully cut on the lines you drew for the transition. Once cut, you can use this as your template to trace the three remaining transition sides.

You'llonly need two 3/4' sides for each 8' ramp section. Most ramps are madein 4' sections but this ramp is small enough to get away with an 8'span. Cut the templates and set them aside.

Framing the Transition

Gather thirty four, 7'-10 1/2long 2×4's for the transition sections. Each 8' wide transition sectionrequires seventeen 2×4's. This includes the deck portion as well.

Mini Ramp For Sale

Takefive of those 7'-10 1/2 long 2×4's and start framing this section byplacing two 2×4's at the back, one at the front and two on the top nextto the coping notch as shown above.

Adding Supports

Place two 2'-9 long 2×4's under the deck 2×4's where shown below. Use about eight, 1 5/8' screws to attach each one.

These add extra support for the deck and need to be placed on each side in both transition sections.

Framing the Transition continued

Now attach twelve7'-10 1/2 long 2×4's, 8' on center unless noted otherwise as shownbelow. Once this has been done, repeat the process for the secondtransition section and set them aside for now.

The2×4's that are doubled in the lower portion of the riding surface arenecessary to create a larger surface area for the seam of the first3/8' plywood layer to.

Framing the Flat Bottom

Gather fifteen 7'-9 long 2×4'sfor the flat bottom supports. You'll also need two, 8' long 2×4's forthe sides of the flat bottom section.

Attach the 7'-9 long 2×4's to the 8' long 2×4's, 8' on center as shown below to finish the flat section.

Pre drill the screw locations at the ends of the 2×4 with a 3/16' drill bit to keep the wood from splitting.

Also, as with the transition, the 2×4's must be doubled where shown for the first layer of 3/8' plywood.

Placing the Ramp

Now that all of the framing is done,the sections can be attached to one another. Hopefully you have theramps final location all squared away too. If not you can learn moreabout ramp foundations here.

Startby having a friend help you move one transition section into place.Then place the flat bottom section next to the transition. Finally,place the last transition section next to the flat bottom section.

Onceall of the sections are in place, make sure that they are level and fittogether properly. Then double check that they are fitting togethercorrectly. After you have done this, clamp the sections together tomake sure they aren't going anywhere. I use quick clamps, but most any clamps will work.

Assembling the Ramp

If your mini ramp is on a concreteslab, you can attach the transition and flat bottom sections togetherusing 2 1/2' screws. Screw them together from each side of the bottomwith about six screws per side.

Free Mini Ramp Plans

Ifyou are placing your ramp on footings or concrete blocks, drill fourequally spaced 5/8' holes. Now bolt the sections together using four1/2' bolts with nuts and washers per side, as shown below.

Buying the coping

To find the steel, look up 'steel yards', 'structural steel' or 'steel fabricators' and so on in the phone book.

Theactual size of the steel pipe that you are looking for is 2 3/8'(60.33mm) outside diameter. With a wall thickness of 7/32'. This pipeis known by steel shops as...

♠ 2' OD, Schedule 80, black steel pipe

Some steel shops are picky about what it's called so use the above name if they seem confused.

Youcan also use schedule 40 steel pipe (5/32' wall) as it is cheaper andlighter, but it may become dented. Schedule 80 pipe on the other handwill not dent under normal skateboarding use.

Do not use PVC pipe (plastic) or electrical conduit, if you want it to last.

Cutting and Drilling the Coping

Cut your steel pipe into two pieces at 8' long with a steel cutting blade (carbide blade) and miter saw or circular saw.

Now we need to attach the steel coping to the ramp. I am going to cover two of the most common methods.

Thefirst method being screws. If done properly, screws will hold thecoping secure for the life of your ramp. Also, you will rarely if evernotice the holes while skating the ramp.

Start by marking thepipe about 3' in from the ends and then about every two feet inbetween. Now drill a 3/8' on the outside and a 3/16' hole on the insideof the pipe.

Attach the Coping w/ Screws

Once drilled, place thecoping in the notch on the mini ramp. Rotate the pipe so that thescrews will hit the 2×4 close to the center. Now place the screws inthe holes and screw the pipe down snug.

After you're done, go back with a screwdriver and make sure the screws are screwed down tight.

Attach the Coping w/ Bolts

Toattach the coping to the mini ramp with bolts, you will need to drillholes in the 2×4 behind where the coping will sit. Mark the 2×4 aboutan 1 1/2' down from the top, 6' in from each end. Also mark two in themiddle at 2'-4 apart. Drill a 3/8' hole in each marked location at aslight downward angle.

Oncethe 2×4 has been drilled, place the coping in the notch on the miniramp. Use the previously drilled holes to mark the coping. Remove thecoping and drill the 3/8' holes where you have just indicated.

Feed a hook bolt into the holes youdrilled and place the coping in the notch on the mini ramp, whilelining up the bolts with the holes in the 2×4. Tighten the bolts downsecure to the 2×4 using nuts and washers.

The bolt at the bottom of theillustration on the right is also known as a clothesline hook and isthe most common for this application. However, hook bolts come in avariety a shapes and sizes. You can use almost any of them as long asthey are about 3' in length and have a 3/8' diameter.

Covering the Decks

Now that you have the coping all taken care of, it's time to cover your ramp. Start with the decks.

Cuttwo sheets of 3/4' plywood down to 2'-9 wide. Attach a sheet to eachdeck portion of the ramp with 1 5/8' screws. Space the screws about afoot apart from each other on the studs below.

Youmust hit the 2×4 supports with the screws. A good way to accomplishthis is with a chalkline or straight edge and pencil. Use the screws onthe sides of the ramp as guides for the 2×4 supports.

Covering the Ramp

Place a sheet of 3/8' plywood on theramp. Push it flush against the coping and begin attaching the ply with1 5/8' screws. Start at the top and work your way down, going from leftto right like reading a book. You may need someone to help you hold theply in place while you get the first few screws started.

As with the deck, mark the location of the 2×4 supports and space the screws about a foot apart.

Next,take another sheet of 3/8' plywood, push it flush against the previoussheet and attach it in the same way placing the screws about a footapart.

Once you've attached the first two pieces, do the same to the other side of the ramp leaving the center exposed as shown above.

Theidea is, you shouldn't have to cut the center sheet for it to fit. Thespace should work out to four feet. But if you do have to cut thesheet, it's much easier to figure it out here than on the transition.

Second Layer of Plywood

On the second layer, you don'twant the plywood seams to be in the same place as the bottom layer. Socut a sheet of 3/8' plywood in half and attach it to the ramp the sameway as the others.

Mini Ramp Plans Metric

Keep adding full sheets until you reach the other side and the coping. Cut the last ply to fit if necessary.

How To Build Mini Ramp

Attaching the Final Layer

Start with a full sheet ofmasonite and press it flush against the coping just like the firstlayer. Keep adding sheets until you reach the other side. Once again,cut the last one to fit if necessary.

The coping should stick out 3/8' fromriding surface. If it sticks out too much, place wood shims under themasonite, near the coping to raise the masonite. Shims are available atyour local hardware store.

Themain difference with masonite is that you need to countersink the screwhole locations before you screw the masonite down. You can do this witha countersink bit, or a 3/8' drill bit and a steady hand.

You also will need to space the masonite sheetsabout 1/16' to 1/8' from each other. This keeps them from bubbling upwhen they expand due to temperature change. I use pennies to space them.

Finished 3ft Mini Ramp

Check everything before you skate it, but you are done. I didn't add a railing because the ramp is only 3'.

If you have made it this far, you are the proud owner of a brand new 3' mini ramp.